2002-10-18 - 9:49 p.m.

Here's a sample of some beth horse writing to keep you form thinking I am dead.

Question:

O.K. people, I think I'm almost ready for Horse Owner status. Can anyone answer a few questions?

1. How do I rate my riding ability? Ads for horses will specify what level of riding a horse is best suited for. I don't want to get in over my head.

2. I'm want a "relationship" with the horse. I'm not just looking for "sporting equipment". For that reason, I think I want a horse between 4 and 10 years old. Am I realistic?

3. I am currently leasing a horse that is closing in on 19 years old. She seems fit and strong. At what age should a horse being used for pleasure be looking at retirement?

4. Since I'm not looking for anything fancy, I'm looking at a price of less than $1,000. Am I realistic? I don't want to deplete my funds in case I discover a problem that may need immediate attention after I purchase the horse.

Any advice deeply appreciated!

Answer:

These are the answers to your questions from my perspective, they are not hard and fast rules:

1. Beginer rider: has walked and trotted, maybe tacked up the lesson horse. The horse marketed for this rider will be very reliable in terms of training but may have health issues. You can feel fairly confident a horse marketed for a begginer is going to be easy to ride. If not he has been misrpresented.

Advanced beginer rider: W/T/C possibly small crossrails and jumps. Tacks own lesson horse, can handle a reasonabley calm horse in hand. Can feel lameness when riding if prompted. A horse adveritised for this category may have a few behavioral quirks such as a senesitive mouth, minor trouble picking up one lead, or difficult attitude when being tacked up. Again, bring some one very experienced because this is another prime group for lame horses to be foisted off on cheaply.

Intermediate Rider: Can determine correct sizing of tack for most horses, has the skills to be left alone at the barn for a few hours. Has a rudimentary knowledge of feeding and turnout. Can determine lameness from riding and tell which leg. Intermediate marketed horses will be a little more alert then your begginer horses. They may be less trained, or they may have larger behavioral problems. They will probabaly not be dead quiet. Warning signs in these horses are if the horse was already ridden before you arrived ( WAY too much energy), being ridden with spurs and a crop ( hard to control), or if the trainer rides him to show you (just not a good sign- trainers can hide more flaws then the seller can).

Advanced Intermediate Rider: Can be trusted to correctly feed and turnout all horses at a familiar barn. Can diagnose lameness visually, including the correct joint and leg, with fair accurasy. Schools jumps on their own. Has basic horse first aid knowledge. Understands the a fair amount of detail in horseshoeing. This horse may have a lot of potential that hasn't been developed yet, he may be older and working his way back down the ranks from high level show horse, or he may have large behavioral issues. Be alert to his soundness, and his attitude, if they both pan out he may just not be able to tolerate little kids yanking on his mouth and kicking at the same time.

Advanced rider: Rides green horses effectivly. Has fallen off at least once. Knows how to CORRECTLY use spurs and a crop. Can diagnose colic, lameness, thrush and other standerd horse ailments. Could apply for a position as a asst. barn manager. Has developed a meaningful

relationship with at least one trainer, and one vet. Can assess a farrier's work.

This horse may not have been trained past wearing a saddle. (also see "project horse" ) He may have major and significant behavioral problems, The owner may just not be able to envision her grand prix jumper being happy as a pleasure horse. If you feel comfortable on a green horse you can go see this level horse, you should be capable of riding him. Again, be realistic about his soundess- why isn't the owner keeping him as HER advanced horse? Why is he too advanced for her?

Notes:

Look for these terms

"Project horse" synonomous with very very green. Needs a ton of work by an advanced rider or trainer. Won't be showing this year.

"4-H horse" could be good for a lower level rider who has good support in terms of her horse care and training.

"Show home only" costs more, the horse is quality, but yo WILL be expected to show and at high levels.

"Started over fences" Do not expect to be riding him over fences soon. It means he has been over a fence at least once in his life. More

likely been worked over them in hand or at liberty. Possibly been schooled over fences by a trainer.

Expect to pay about $50-$250 more for seeing each of the following terms:

Scopey, flashy, no vices, nice disposition, easy, sound, great mind, nice mover, shown, changes, to good home only.

Deduct between $50 - $250 for each of these phrases: broodmare prospect, green but quiet, must sell no time, motivated seller, should

mature, used in lessons.

Age usually isn't a primer determiner for rleationship building. 4 is a perfect low end age for anyone who isn't already an advanced rider. If you have a small budget consider horses aged 11-15, if they are sound. They are already trained, and seasoned, and the seller usually knows that the horse isn't prime merchandise. Soundness is KEY!

Horses and ponies can work regularly into their early 20s with good care. Pleasure is a great discipline to extend your horses working life. Be

sure the horse hasn't been out of work for any length of time ( months etc) because that is the surest way to prevent them from every getting fully fit again. Obviously retirement is relative to each horse. Many horses are happier if they have some light job to do once a week so long as they are able, such as a slow trail ride. If the horses condition is good he can be rideen until his condition declines. Ask your vet to help you evaluate when your horse can no longer do the job you want him to, and what he still can do.

In terms of cost. You can find a horse for any level rider for $1000 dollars. Usually it will be an off the track thoroughbred, a baby, or a significantly older horse. Don't rule out any horse because it is listed at twice yor price, unless it says "firm". Often as seller will come down some percent of the asking cost, but not always. If they won;t come down and you just dont have it, ask that the seller keep you in mind if anything changes.

Question:

Hi gang... wanted to share my experience recently in riding bareback my Percheron gelding. I was at first very nervous and then just took a deep breath and relaxed and ended up loving it. Can anyone tell me if this is good for him? Must be better than carrying a saddle right? Any

thoughts on bareback pads and suggestions? Any good advice riding this way for fun or practice exercises?

Thanks!

Answer:

The basics of bareback are the same as saddle. If you are very insecure ( ie boucing a lot) it will be uncomfortable for your horse. Just as a tiny kid can ride a large pony bareback and bounce without hurting it, Unless you are 6 feet tall and a linebacker, you proabably can't hurt your percheron even if you do bounce a bit. I know, its so slippery!

Are you working in a ring or a field? I would suggest this as a GREAT cool down exercise in the ring.

Another idea is to have your trainer give you a short lesson bareback. It's great for your seat and leg position, as well as for helping you

progress in developing an independant hand and body.

Basically just follow common sense. If after you ride bareback your horse is sensitive on his back, reconsider what you did that day.

Saddles are useful to distrbute wieght more evenly across your horses back, as well as to keep you in place, which helps your horse compensate for you.

Try for your self! Adjust a backpacks straps to their very longest then jog around. Try tightening them and jog again. The saddle is the strap that keeps you as a rider mostly in one place.

In terms of what to do bareback- the sky is the limit- IF you progress slowely and carefully. If you know your horse has a great soft trot/jog, you may want to spend time doing figure 8's at the trot. If however, he's bouncy at the trot but smooth to canter, take a large circle at the canter then practice staying in position during upward and downward transitions. Eventually you can take small jumps bareback if you like.

I'm such a safety nut : just remeber that going bareback doesnt mean going bareheaded!

I guess I would give marathon answers to ANY horsey questions I know the answers to. :)

I will eb working at Valley View Farm stand this sunday, on Rt. 22 in Lebanon if any one wants to visit me.

-bsg-

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